Through the next several days, I repeated the ultrasound course for a completely new cohort of residents. This time around I was able to improve on the first iteration, with some more streamlined processes for transitioning from the lectures to the practice sessions. I built more trust with the residents and admin in the process. This time we were also able to include some separate practice sessions for the lady doctors in the group.

I think it would be remiss of me to not discuss what I saw when it came to women. Despite having read in European newspapers that women were barred from public spaces alone, I saw women at the markets, in the park, and in shops. I worked with several translators that were educated women and held jobs. I had rich conversations with several women, on topics ranging from religion, economics, political theory, and culture. I trained and interacted with women physicians in the hospital: surgeons, medicine, and dermatology. The chief of surgery at Aliabad hospital herself was a woman. These features were in opposition to what I had been led to believe.

I did learn that under the new government, women could no longer go to regular schools after the sixth grade, instead being sent to religious schools thereafter until grade 12. It was unclear what happened at the culmination of that education, or how that education would look given such programs were in their infancy. If a woman was already in higher education at the time of the new government’s arrival, they were allowed to complete their studies, but no new admissions were permitted. Outside of the policy level, at times I caught wind of the women physicians being excluded from training by their male counterparts. I also found many of my female trainees more reserved than their male counterparts with less initiative to speak up or ask questions during our group sessions; not too dissimilar to what might happen in classrooms all over the world. How long this will be the case remains to be seen.

I was told by many that before this government, crime was rampant, travel between provinces was dangerous, and there was a lot of disorder. Law and order had been restored, and there was real stability now from which to build that had seemed lost for nearly an entire generation. I was also told that after the government change, amnesty was granted to those that worked with international groups during the war in a ‘forgive and forget’ approach aimed at building bridges and propelling the country forward. We were here after all, a US based organization, welcomed with open arms. This is in direct contrast to what circulates in Western radio waves.

Of course it doesn’t matter to anybody what I think, but these are my journals after all, so I will give my perspective. Despite having their country ravaged by 45 years of non-stop war, Afghan people are incredibly humble, warm, hospitable, and friendly. We may not understand (or like) many of their current governance practices in the West, but ultimately I don’t think they are ours to understand. I think we have learned time and time again that we cannot strong-arm other people into a particular way of life, and if we do, we only generate disdain and bloodshed. If you ask me, they are trying to govern in a way that they feel is in the best interest of their nation, and I see opportunities for growth in this. Over the last two years, they have opened themselves up to more tourism, foreign aid, and international commerce, including an application to join the BRICS Economic Summit. I am certain that like in any country, there are those who agree and disagree to varying levels with the stricter policies, but we have to remember it’s a country that is three years old in a period of transition; we have no place judging them by the same standard as the West. Hopefully, stability and time will bring progress.

Over the last several days of my stay, I continued to be charmed by the Afghan people. I had more stimulating conversations, ate more delicious foods, and learned more about their country and all its truths that I could find. It was not lost on me that Kabul is just one piece of the greater country, with varied traditions, attitudes, and conditions throughout. What I will say is that I left with a sense of real purpose and connection. Sure, now the residents have two ultrasound probes and some sense of how to use them, but the work is just beginning.

In the aftermath of the mission, we sat down to develop a longitudinal program to implement online training for point of care ultrasound. As we speak, my dear reader, this is in the works as we build the scaffolding for a continued collaboration. With some online training, the residents will improve their skills and gain more knowledge on the tool. By the next time I come around, if we have a handful of accredited doctors, they can be the ones teaching the courses with me at newer sites. Over time, hopefully it will propagate. By the same token, Pious Projects is looking at other ways to establish a presence outside Kabul. We will see in a year’s time how everything looks.

While Afghanistan continues to percolate in the background, my journey moves on. The mountain desert makes way for the East African jungle; I write this from Rwanda on another education based project in the Northern Province. Typhoid fever, anyone?

As always, thank you for indulging me with your time in reading this. It means a lot.

Also, maybe it’s time to stop reading about my travels and come see them for yourself? Applications always open. Lactose tolerance highly encouraged but not necessary.

Much love,

Pez